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GeikoHikizuriKitsuke Tutorial by Kurokami-Kanzashi GeikoHikizuriKitsuke Tutorial by Kurokami-Kanzashi
This is something I decided to put together on a whim. I wanted to photograph my new ro geiko ensemble, so I decided to document the process of dressing the manequin with photos.

From those I've put together a very basic tutorial of how to achieve an authentic geiko look with your kitsuke. Great for cosplaying. If you need more detailed information check out these sites: [link] and [link]

CLICK THE DOWNLOAD BUTTON TO VIEW THE TEXT AND IMAGES AT FULL SIZE!

Now, some vocabulary for beginners:
Geiko - Fully fledged geisha.
Hikizuri - Long kimono meant to be worn trailing.
Hadajuban - Undermost layer put on when donning kimono
Juban - Layer between the Hadajuban and the outer kimono
Hiyoku - Second layer of fabric around the collar and hem of the outer kimono. This is meant to give the illusion of wearing yet another layer under the outer kimono
Ohashiori - Waist fold used to adjust the length of the kimono.
Koshihimo - Fabric tie used to secure the kimono in place beneath the obi
Obi - Belt used when wearing kimono
Otaiko Musubi - Drum Knot. Style of tying the obi
Obijime - Decorative cord tied over top of the obi
Sensu - Japanese folding fan
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:iconpsiten:
psiten Featured By Owner Oct 18, 2014  Hobbyist General Artist
I've looked so long for information this detailed. Thank you so much!
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:iconbseashelley:
Bseashelley Featured By Owner Mar 7, 2012
How do I get my collar to stop slipping and stay nicely folded? At the back of my neck? The hiyuki part keeps being mean... how low should I put my collar? I have a shigoki to fill in for my momi but where should I start wrapping and where should i be looking to stop? Last question I swear! How low on my hips should i put my obi? BTW thank you for this tutorial it is amazing! I am finding out really fast how different from normal kimono a hiki is but it is fun to learn!
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:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Jun 9, 2013
Keep collar from slipping: Tie really tightly around your chest and use a korin belt. Use clothes pins when dressing to keep things in place.

How low should the collar be: We should be able to see the skin between your shoulder blades.

Wrapping the mommi: Stat wrapping from just above the widest part of your hips up to just under your bust.

How low to tie the obi: That really depends on where the obi will sit on your particular body. Try it a few times to see what looks good on you and where the obi naturally wants to sit on you.
Reply
:iconxxice-maidenxx:
xxice-maidenxx Featured By Owner Jan 22, 2013  Student General Artist
hi! i know this might be a late reply, but a hikizuri collar should be pulled down to your shoulder blades, so i guess there isn't an exact measurement...

as for the obi, because hikizuri's are usually only worn by maikos, the obi should be wider than a normal obi, and the position should be fairly high, just below the bust.

im sorry if any of this information is false, since i am also pretty new to the whole kimono world ^_^'

hope this helps!
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:iconkazukideng:
KazukiDeng Featured By Owner Apr 2, 2011  Professional General Artist
AMAZING O-O
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:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Apr 24, 2011
Thank you!
Reply
:iconcassandrajames:
CassandraJames Featured By Owner Jan 28, 2011  Professional Traditional Artist
Wow this is helpful!
Reply
:iconsilver-willow04:
Silver-Willow04 Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2010  Hobbyist General Artist
This has really helped me out! I have 2 hiki with hiyoku and I was wondering " how am i going to fold it!!! "

This helped IMMENSELY!

Thanks so much for posting this!
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 1, 2010
Thank you!
Reply
:iconfantasystock:
FantasyStock Featured By Owner Jul 23, 2010
:+fav: This tutorial is featured in "Costume Design 101" for Costume Week.

Thank you for sharing your design techniques with the community!
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Sep 8, 2010
Thank you very much for the feature!
Reply
:iconbornahorse:
bornahorse Featured By Owner Nov 15, 2009
Thank you! This is very helpful!!
I didn't know that wrapping the obi that way was considered "sexy". :XD:
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 19, 2009
Thanks! That and wearing the obi lower on your hips is considered sexy.
Reply
:iconbornahorse:
bornahorse Featured By Owner Nov 20, 2009
That's hilariously awesome. :XD: (and convient for my Midna Kimono cosplay! YAY!)
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:iconlady-atropos:
lady-atropos Featured By Owner Nov 8, 2009
This is amazingly helpful. I recently bought my first ever hikizuri as you well know) and how to wear the thing is...puzzling. With much of the forums being on maiko attire, there is so little help for those who prefer the geisha.

THANK YOU!
Reply
:iconlaerad:
Laerad Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
you are very knowledgeable and I am always interested in seeing your stuff, even though asian costumes are not something I do (aside from my very poor attempt at a Geisha costume for halloween a couple of years ago...) Since then, I have shortened the sleeves of my kimono to make them more manageable and use it as a very chic dressing gown when I sleep over go to a spa !
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:iconhasturcts:
HasturCTS Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
You have the best tutorials - and some of the coolest stuff to make them for. Thank you for this.
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:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Glad you enjoy them!
Reply
:iconsiren10101:
siren10101 Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Student Artist
hmm know all i need is the kimono...
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:iconshadowwinglg:
ShadowWingLG Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
*favs*

This will come in HANDY...I thought the order was hadajuban -> juban -> nagajuban and a han eri was sewn onto the nagajuban...or do I have my layer order mixed up...again x_X
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Also, as far as I remember nagajuban and juban are the same thing. So the layering would be hadajuban -> nagajuban -> susoyoke (another item I didn't put on the manequin) -> kimono.

The han'eri is sewn onto the nagajuban (juban).
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Thank you! It seems you've caught my mistake! You are right the bottom layer is a hadajuban, not a nagajuban. I've gone ahead and corrected that. Hee hee, I always get those two terms confused because I just call my juban, juban and I don't own a hadajuban, so I've never had to differentiate.
Reply
:iconshadowwinglg:
ShadowWingLG Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
No problem! Years ago my friend (and current roommate) got me a vintage kimono for Christmas, I spent the next 2-3 months looking into how to wear it and all the proper undergarments.

I have a Hadajuban (which looks a bit like you juban above)and a Nagajuban (which is actually made from patterned material) Haven't seen a susoyoke...need to look up what that is again.

Someday I'll need to post up the pics of it.
Reply
:icontaeliac:
taeliac Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
Not only is this a rather useful tutorial, but it's an absolutely fantastic reference for drawing!! Thank you :love:
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:iconrubyoftrinity:
RubyOfTrinity Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
I did not know about the "sexy obi" thing. That is quite useful as I am both short-waisted and curvy, a bad combination when attempting to wear kimono. :P
Reply
:iconsparklewolfie:
SparkleWolfie Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Student Artisan Crafter
Ooh I like this silhouette! It looks sort of elegant sexy without being provocative :heart: Very pretty!
Reply
:iconjaliya:
jaliya Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
Fascinating tutorial. Do all kimono have folded collars (ie: you have to fold them as you put them on) or are some pre-folded? I think yukata are...?

As for the red soft obi underneath the more decorative obi, I believe the length is the same as a standard obi, only twice as wide to give it a more scrunchy look, and to cover more area than the usual obi.
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:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Thank you! Most formal kimono have collars that need to be folded. Though some people fold their collars and then sew them in place to make it easier to dress. Dance and stage kimono are often like that. Otherwise, yukata always have a collar sewn half width and children's kimono do as well.

I think the red soft obi is actually a shigoki obi of some sort, though I'm not sure. I'm also not sure if it's the more orante obi for geiko (perhaps for maiko) because I've only seen plain red ones on geiko.
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:iconjaliya:
jaliya Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Yeah, the geiko wear the matte/undecorated ones (red under-obi), and the maiko have the more ornate ones. << Maiko have more ornate everything, geez!
Reply
:iconfirstkisseslast:
firstkisseslast Featured By Owner Jul 28, 2011
for the "maiko have more ornate everything"

from what I understand, maiko are so "fluffed" because they aren't old enough to carry a witty conversation/dance/etc, like the geiko, so they're basically eye candy. XD

Reply
:iconcushi-wu:
Cushi-Wu Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
I have two kimono with narrow collars (you can wear them as is), one is a wool komon and the other is a black synthetic sha looking thing. So I think this means they are for casual only, I recomend them for begininers, it makes one less thing you to worry about.
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:iconqueentoast:
QueenToast Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
How many times to you wrap the obi?
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:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Well, that will depend how big your waist is. I usually wrap it 2.5 - 3.5 times (depending on how much length I need for the knot) and then tie the knot.
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:iconhanatsukuri:
hanatsukuri Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2009
Very pretty! Much Better than the No-Curve Inducing style of kitsuke・・・ 
Reply
:icontalisx:
TalisX Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009
Thank you so much for making this. You're photos and descriptions are always so helpful. ^_^
Reply
:iconmyloko:
myloko Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Very well done :D Now you can fix my kimono when they go wonky or I happen to need that sexy geisha look >.>b
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:iconcrazed-fangirl:
crazed-fangirl Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
Thanks for putting this together! ^_^ This has always been my favorite style of, uhm.... Kimono wearing(?). If that's a thing.

Still, I think it's lovely. You're going to show us how you look in it, right?
Reply
:iconkurokami-kanzashi:
Kurokami-Kanzashi Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2009
Thank you! Hee hee, at some point I will... Though it may be a while. I've got a lot of kimono ensembles to photograph still. ;)
Reply
:iconcushi-wu:
Cushi-Wu Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2009  Hobbyist General Artist
I believe the word you are searching for is Kitsuke and yeah, I like this way the most too. ;)
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